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It still felt a bit strange walking up to a brand new luxurious car with a Syrian number plate in the heart of Beirut. Just a few moments before I met Mohammed, a tall and very friendly old man, patiently waiting for me in the lobby of my hotel. His smile was captivating. ‘I am your driver for your Syria trip this week’, he introduced himself with while he offered to take my small backpack. At that moment I started to realize… my trip to Syria

had just started.